16 LAZY IN LOMBARDY: LAKE COMO AND MILAN
Contrary to the rest of the trip, I felt I had a relatively relaxed week. Hannah and I started by driving to Bellagio on Lake Como from Turin. The drive was made more interesting by several bouts of heavy rain and the dramatic alpine landscape that, in the bad weather, reminded me a lot of North Wales’ Llyn Padarn. Once in Bellagio, we napped before my university friends arrived by train/boat to the apartment. For the next few days, Bert was taking a rest because we were staying in Sally’s (yes Sally from Sabina!) Airbnb in the pretty village of Visgnola, overlooking Bellagio with an incredible balcony view of the mountains. We were extremely fortunate to have Sally’s flat during the busy summer season and we are unbelievably grateful to her for allowing us to stay!
To celebrate our arrival in Como (yes, I will be writing Como to refer to Lake Como and not the City of Como - sue me), we went for dinner. It was slightly late and still a little inclement, so we simply went to closest cheap restaurant (La Bellagina Ristorante Pizzeria), which, although didn’t have the best reviews, was surprisingly tasty - my salmon tagliatelle was at least. It was a really nice evening and lots of wine was had.
The following day, after various flavoured croissants from the patisserie situated directly beneath the apartment, we headed to the beach down in San Giovanni, just outside Bellagio. Unfortunately, it was still a little overcast and extremely windy, so only Jonny, Hannah and I ventured in to the waves.
We left the beach due to the weather and wondered into and around Bellagio which was pretty and compact. We caught a ferry to Tremezzo where we had - and I’m aware I say this almost every time - one of the best pasta dishes of my life at Bar Red and White (awful name, I know). It was a simple pasta dish with garlic, olive oil and chili, but was absolutely delicious.
Following our meal, we immediately went for a swim near the dock outside. Perhaps the old wives tale of waiting an hour after eating before swimming is accurate, because I did not feel good after. Or perhaps it was just the sheer amount of pasta I had consumed. God knows. Or maybe he doesn’t, maybe he’s busy debating genuine issues. Who knows.
After a short ferry and walk back to the Airbnb, we relaxed and had a few drinks. We were celebrating Han’s birthday that was the following day! A little tipsy, we strolled a few hundred meters to Restaurant Trattoria Bellavista that we had booked. To be frank, I think I had had a little too much wine at this point to remember the meal precisely. Please try not to judge, my tolerance is low having not consumed much alcohol over the past few months. I know I had a lamb dish and I remember thinking it was tasty at the time, so I guess that’s sufficient knowledge. We celebrated Han’s birthday nicely, going to a pub soon after for a few more drinks!
Safe to say I did not feel good in the morning. We went to the beach again, this time the sun was shining and the hurricane-winds gone. I think the lake water helped, but deep down (and probably showing on the surface too), all I really wanted to do was eat a MacDonalds and lie in bed. Nevertheless, we had a lovely time on the beach until it was time to drop Jonny, Surekha and Han off at Bergamo airport. Of course, on the way, we did pick up a MacDonalds which thankfully the diet coke alone did the trick in reducing the symptoms of my hangover. After waving goodbye at the airport, I returned to Sally’s Airbnb and slept for 10 hours (a lot for me).
The next four days I spent alone; a rarity on this trip (not that I’m complaining). I hiked my first mountain in a long time: Monte San Primo at 1682m. It had the most incredible view of Lake Como and the surrounding mountains, and whilst the steep ascent was a challenge, the descent was a lovely stroll. It has definitely encouraged me to walk more mountains solo. I felt so mysterious to passer-byers (except when I lost my phone and panic ran 1km back up the mountain to find a German lady holding my phone - I definitely did not feel mysterious then).
I also spent a lot of time on the beach in San Giovanni over the next couple of days, reading my book. I met up with Phoebe and Harri - friends from home - for a coffee as they happened to be on holiday in Bellagio at the same time! It was a lovely coincidence.
I camped at a lovely lakeside campsite on the Friday night, making friends with all the resident dogs! The campsite had a small beach which I relaxed on all of Saturday morning, enjoying the sun and cooling off in the lake. Following my tan-gain, I packed Bert and drove to Bergamo, recommended to me by Phoebe and Harri.
Firstly, parking in Bergamo was a bit of a nightmare but eventually I grabbed a spot. The space was directly outside the old town walls and overlooked the modern Bergamo. Inside the walls was a very pretty old town, full of boutique shops, patisseries and pizza counters. I had a nose around, visited the cathedral which was stunning as well as the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore which was equally beautiful. After a couple of hours (and an emergency toilet visit at the Civic Museum of Natural Sciences), I left Bergamo with cake in hand. I drove the 2 hour journey to Milan Malpensa airport, where I was staying in a hotel for the next couple of nights. This was in preparation for my step-mother - Nia - who was landing in Malpensa sunday evening.
The following morning, I caught the train into Milan (for a whopping 27 euro - not happy) and headed straight to the Van Gogh immersive experience that I had pre-booked. Perhaps you may have heard of it; it’s simply large white canvas rooms with the paintings of Van Gogh projected onto the walls. The paintings are brought to life via animation, so, for instance, a painting of trees would have moving leaves. It was a really beautiful experience and quite poignant at times, especially going through his work produced at the asylum. I would highly recommend it.
However, and I know this is controversial, but why are children allowed in museums? If the museum is not designed for children’s interest or understanding, they should not be there at all. Actually no, scratch that. Why are the children of parents who do not tell their children off if they are misbehaving allowed in museums? Nobody wants to hear children crying or doing that annoying half-whine-half-cry noise that kids seem to do; complaining because they are bored; shouting; talking loudly asking to leave; running around covering the projectors believing it is them that everyone is admiring. No, nobody wants to see you. Get out the way. AND THE PARENTS! NOT SAYING A WORD! They even looked quite proud that it was their child running around screaming. Get out. I’m aware that if I become a parent, my stance may change (I hope), but in the meantime, parents really ought to shout at their kids more often...in museums at least. Anyway…
I then caught the metro into the centre and visited the Duomo which was beautiful, but probably the least memorable of all the Italian Duomos I have seen. Walking around Milan, I think I assumed it would be a lot grander (like Paris) as a fashion capital of the world. Unfortunately, I felt no real charm at all. Although perhaps this is because it’s having to compete with the dozen other cities I have visited this summer.
I wondered around Sforzesco Castle and the surrounding park, sitting in the sun until I overheated and the only cure was to have what was my final Italian gelato of the trip! I certainly finished on a high, having an award winning chocolate and raspberry duo from Dassie Gelato - absolutely delicious and up there with my favourite gelato of the trip. Exhausted, I returned to the central station via the metro and caught the train back to the hotel at Malpensa. I relaxed and started my new and tenth book of the trip: A Short History of Europe by Simon Jenkins. I really ought to have read it at the start of the trip because it’s really helped my European history knowledge but better late than never!
At around 10pm, I greeted Nia at arrivals, ready for a week of German culture.
SUMMARY
Despite the dodgy weather at the start of the week, the last seven days were a nice combination of relaxation and sightseeing. I didn’t do nothing, but I didn’t do too much either. It was nice having my friends over, and it was sad saying goodbye to Hannah having spent over two weeks together. There are very few people I could spend so much time with, but Han and I made many lovely memories that I will never forget. On the whole, I would not hesitate to return to Como, but Milan hugely underwhelmed me - although that is the reality of travelling! Join me next week where Nia and I spend the week venturing up Germany. Once again, thank you for reading :)
